No. E327

Conclusion

This is strictly a cold-weather fragrance, suited for evening wear when you want to make a statement, though that statement might be, "I arrived." Reserved for outdoor settings and open spaces only. A daring, if heavy-handed, choice for a night at a dimly lit bar, but disastrous in a close-quarters setting such as a plane or movie theater. Best suited for the individual who enjoys commanding attention, perhaps a showman or a rebellious creative type who enjoys defying expectations.

Notes & Nuances

No. E327 opens as a smoldering confessional. Initially, the incense is assertive, less liturgical and more like burning cedar planks. The raspberry arrives almost immediately, adding a pulpy sweetness that battles the initial smoke. It's a tug-of-war that leans surprisingly toward a cloying cherry cough syrup note after several minutes. The promised oud in the heart is present, but feels neutered, lending only a vague medicinal bitterness instead of the rich animalic depth one hopes for. Birch adds a needed touch of tarred leather, but the rose is fleeting, a whisper only. The base becomes a sweet, synthetic amberwood cloud that overpowers the benzoin, drying down to a plasticky, almost headache-inducing, lingering sweetness. Compared to its muse, it lacks the original's elegant restraint and nuanced complexity.

Longevity & Projection

Longevity is beastly; this fragrance stubbornly clings for 8-10 hours. Projection is equally potent, easily filling a room for the first few hours, settling to a strong arm's length after that. I tested it during a windy autumn walk, where it performed acceptably, and then later in a closed office, where it became overwhelming, generating negative reactions.